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Togruta Costume Headpiece: How To Assemble

Togruta Costume Headpiece: How to Assemble

Post Series: Ahsoka Adult Togruta Headpiece

Hey Guys!  This is a short series of tutorials for people who have purchased (or just want to know more!) my “Ahsoka” Adult Togruta Lekku Headpiece!  There are three main options for the headpiece:

  • Unassembled “Do-It-Yourself” Kit
  • Assembled but Unpainted
  • Fully Painted

If you purchased yours unassembled, this is the right place!  This tutorial will be going over how to assemble it yourself.  If you purchased it already assembled, but unpainted, skip over to #2 to learn how to paint it.  And if you purchased it already painted, head on over to #3 & #4 to learn about wearing and caring for your new headpiece!

Thanks again, and I hope you enjoy!

How to Assemble Your New Togruta Headpiece
Glossary

First things first, some definitions.

  • Montrals
    • This is the top with the horns where your head will go. It is made of a stiffer foam to help it keep its shape.
  • Lekku
    • The two identical tendrils that will go by the sides of your head and fall forward on your chest.
  • Rear Lekku
    • The larger tendril that goes along your back.
1. Tools & Supplies Needed

Here’s the list the tools and supplies you’ll need:

    1. Cutting blade
      • I recommend a long blade box cutter or a razor blade
    2. Protective gloves
      • Cut safe gloves, sweethearts!
    3. Scissors
      • The foam will dull them so make sure they’re sturdy!
    4. Rubber contact cement
      • I recommend Barge, it’s readily available at most hardware stores, dries fairly quickly, and has great hold.
    5. Siliconized Acrylic Caulk OR Liquid Latex
      • These are used to help hide the seam. I’ll explain the pros and cons of each a little bit later, but know you either need one of these or you’ll commit to hiding the seam with, say, a leather cuff or the like.
    6. Paintbrushes
      • Used for spreading contact cement, caulk, and latex. These will be destroyed after one use so don’t spend a lot on them!
  • “Ahsoka” Latex-Free Togruta Lekku

    “Ahsoka” Latex-Free Togruta Lekku

    Rated 5.00 out of 5
    $175.00$450.00
    Select options
  • Ahsoka Tano’s Crown

    Ahsoka Tano’s Crown

    $30.00$50.00
    Select options
2. Preparing to Assemble
  • Montrals
    • First, you want to trim up the seam on the montral piece that’s where the rear lekku will sit. You also want to cut the excess little nubs from the releases on the insides of where the side lekkus will mount.
  • Lekku
    • For both the side and back lekku, you will want to trim the excess foam with your blade. You want to decide how you want them to sit, so I recommend trimming a bit, then putting them in the socket to see where that lets the lekku sit, then repeating until you like the way they sit. This way you can make them either sit more fully on your chest or hang more on the sides.
  • Rear Lekku
    • Same thing. Trim the excess foam off of the top with your blade. Try it out several times to make sure that it sits the way you want it to. You want it to mostly hang straight or almost straight down so it helps keep your headpiece sitting correctly. With this one you can also decide if you want to leave a bit of a ridge where the montral piece and the rear lekku connect (ie for an original character) or if you want it to sit flush (ie for Ahsoka).

 

3. Gluing
  • Lekku
    • Cover the inside of the lekku socket on the montral piece with a thin layer of your contact cement. Use your paintbrush to smooth it around. Cover the top of the lekku with another thin layer. Let these thin layers almost completely dry.
    • It should take a couple of minutes but wait until they’re tacky (ie sticky) without pulling off of the foam. Once you reach this point, apply another thin layer to the lekku. Let it dry about thirty seconds to a minute until it too starts to get tacky.
    • Then line up your lekku and press it into the socket. Hold it for about five minutes or until it no longer pulls away.
    • It will take a solid hour or so for it to fully set so I recommend setting your headpiece down so it’s supported and letting it cure before proceeding.
    • You can do both side lekku and then leave the headpiece laying flat face-down while you take a break. 🙂

 

  • Rear Lekku
    • You’re going to repeat the same process. Cover both socket and top of lekku with thin layer of contact cement.
    • Let dry until tacky.
    • Apply another thin layer of glue, press and hold for five minutes.
    • Let sit for an hour or so.
4. Covering Seams

At this point, you have three choices as to how you’re going to deal with the seams.  Click one of these three boxes to open up directions for it!

Got an original character? Don’t feel like doing any more work with glues and stuff? Just hide the side seams with jewelry, a leather cuff, or an armor piece. If you let the rear lekku have a bit of a ridge, that will look intentional and is canon, so don’t worry about hiding it. 🙂

Liquid latex will give you the best, smoothest look for the seam. It also doesn’t pull away from the foam so does not require any continued maintenance. You can get it online or from costume stores. Obviously this isn’t a great option if you have a latex allergy! It is also more expensive than the caulk and more of a pain to find if you don’t have a nearby costuming store.

  • Trim Seam
    • Take your scissors or your blade and, as carefully as you can, trim the foam along the side seam so that you have as small of a slope as possible.
  • Apply Latex
    • Using a paintbrush, apply latex to the seam. You want to allow each layer to fully dry between applications. Start on the bottom lekku and brush it up into the seam and onto the top montral piece. You will likely need to do this up to a dozen times so give yourself plenty of time to do so!
  • Powder Final Layer
    • For the final layer, after about ten minutes, take and gently apply some baby powder to the outside of the latex. This will pit or scuff up the finish so it’s not super shiny.

Caulk is readily available at any home improvement stores for a couple of bucks. It’s also the easiest to apply since you only have to do one to maybe two coats to get the seam smoothed. Finally, if you have any latex allergies this is the best way to go. That being said, it tends to pull away from the foam so will need some upkeep between wearings.

 

  • Trim Seam
    • Take your scissors or your blade and, as carefully as you can, trim the foam along the side seam so that you have as small of a slope as possible.
  • Apply Caulk
    • For this part I usually recommend a popsicle stick, but can be done with a brush still.
    • Simply squeeze the caulk out onto the seam.
    • Smooth it down with the popsicle stick or brush, feathering the edges.
  • Powder Final Layer
    • Dust the caulk with a bit of baby powder or talc powder. This will help keep the caulk from being super shiny so it’s less visible when you paint.
    • Allow the caulk a full 48 hours before you paint it or else it won’t set nicely.
  • Upkeep
    • The caulk tends to pull away from the foam at the edges. If this happens, just take a paintbrush and apply a bit of your rubber cement to the foam and the underside of the caulk.
    • Give it about a minute, then press the caulk back into place. Now it should hold!

Congratulations! You have a fully assembled headpiece. The next steps are to paint it, then rip out the inside of the headpiece so that it will fit comfortably on your head. You’re almost done! <3

Amber Brite

Amber Brite is a professional prop-maker and cosplayer from Arizona. She has years of experience building large props and prosthetics, armor crafting, sewing, bodypainting, and more. She also loves to share her knowledge through tutorials on her site, as well as panels at the conventions she attends.

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