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Togruta Costume Headpiece: Caring For & Maintainence

Togruta Costume Headpiece: Caring for & Maintainence

Post Series: Ahsoka Adult Togruta Headpiece

Hey Guys!  This is a short series of tutorials for people who have purchased (or just want to know more!) my “Ahsoka” Adult Togruta Lekku Headpiece!  There are three main options for the headpiece:

  • Unassembled “Do-It-Yourself” Kit
  • Assembled but Unpainted
  • Fully Painted

By this point, you’ve probably worn your new headpiece around a bit!  It’s painted, it fits nicely, it looks great!  Maybe you even wore it to a con!  Now the question is… how do you take care of it?  How do you store it safely and keep it looking great for a long time?  No worries, I got you covered!

Thanks again, and I hope you enjoy!

Caring for Your New Togruta Headpiece
Glossary

First things first, some definitions.

  • Montrals
    • This is the top with the horns where your head will go. It is made of a stiffer foam to help it keep its shape.
  • Lekku
    • The two identical tendrils that will go by the sides of your head and fall forward on your chest.
  • Rear Lekku
    • The larger tendril that goes along your back.
1. Tools & Supplies Needed

Here’s the list the tools and supplies you’ll need:

    1. Soap & Water
      1. Just really soft soap, nothing strong.  Hand soap will do just fine.
    2. Talc Powder / Baby Powder
    3. Rubber Contact Cement (Optional)
      • I recommend Barge, it’s readily available at most hardware stores, dries fairly quickly, and has great hold.
    4. Liquitex / Bodypaint
      • For Touchups
  • “Ahsoka” Latex-Free Togruta Lekku

    “Ahsoka” Latex-Free Togruta Lekku

    Rated 5.00 out of 5
    $175.00$450.00
    Select options
  • Ahsoka Tano’s Crown

    Ahsoka Tano’s Crown

    $30.00$50.00
    Select options
2. Routine Care

For the most part, the headpiece will hold up very well on its own!  However like most primary-white props, any dirt and grime is very visible and requires some cleaning to keep it looking good.  Here’s some good tips:

  • Wash Lightly with Soap & Water
    • Just a really soft soap will do.  Hand soap is best.
    • Don’t fully submerge the headpiece.  It is foam, and will soak up the water!
    • Make sure to pat, don’t scrub!  Use a soft wash cloth, or your bare hand
    • You probably won’t get 100% of the dirt, but it should help.
  • Check for any damage (guides for repairs below)
    • Sometimes the seams will start to pull away from a full convention’s worth of flexing and tugging, so inspect them closely.
    • Other people’s costumes and all their sharp edges might cause damage as well, so check for any holes or tears in the foam
    • Look for any worn off paint as well
3. Maintenance & Touch-Ups
  • Repair any damage to the paint.
    • You can mix up a tiny amount of Liquitex to cover up any dirt or damage that occurs. Remember to wash with soap and water (pat, don’t scrub!) to make sure you get dust/grit/grime off before repainting.
      • For Ahsoka, the colors of Liquitex that I use when painting headpieces for others are:
        • White – Liquitex Soft Body Titanium White
        • Gray – 3 parts white (above) to 1 part Liquitex Heavy Body Payne’s Gray
        • (This brand can be bought at Michael’s and online)
      • If you had me paint your Ahsoka, buy these colors so you can get a perfect match
  • Use contact cement/rubber cement for repairs.
    • If there are any splits that occur or, heaven forbid, tears, you can use contact cement or rubber cement to repair it.
    • Put a thin layer on both sides of the split/tear, allow thirty seconds to a minute for it to get tacky.
    • Press gently together and hold for another two minutes until the cement is mostly dry.
    • After that, simply paint over and, voila, good as new!
  • Use liquid latex or plastidip for areas of high wearing.
    • The foam will rip and tear if constantly against, for instance, leather or anything else that’s very rough.
    • If this starts to occur, you can apply a thin layer of liquid latex or plastidip to that area to provide extra protection to keep the foam from ripping. Then simply repaint, and you’re golden!
    • Remember that these products will GREATLY decrease flexibility in those areas, though, so use them only where you need them or run the risk of inflexible and awkward lekku!
4. Storing Your Headpiece
  • Store out of sunlight/heat.
    • Sunlight will contribute to the foam yellowing. It’s very important you store your foam headpiece out of sunlight. A good paint job will keep her from yellowing noticeably but an unfinished headpiece will go from white to tan in a day’s time if you’re not careful.
  • Store her flat and not crunched/crinkled.
    • The foam will recover from, say, a road trip in which another heavy prop falls on her and dents her. But the longer she’s crinked or bent, the longer it will take for her to recover and at some point she’ll just stay bent forever.
  • Don’t store her against anything smooth/sticky/painted/inked/etc.
    • The Liquitex paint, once fully set, is pretty durable, but can still be prone to being stained or even pulled off. My headpieces are stored on a mannequin head on a stand with a trash bag overtop of her to keep dust and debris off of her.
  • Dust her before long term storage.
    • Putting a thin layer of baby powder on her will help keep her from sticking to anything and keep grime off. 

Thank you so very much for reading my tutorials!  I hope you found them helpful and that all your questions are answered!  Of course, if you have any questions at all, you are more than welcome to message me on Facebook or send me an email!  Thanks again, and enjoy your new Togruta lekku!

Amber Brite

Amber Brite is a professional prop-maker and cosplayer from Arizona. She has years of experience building large props and prosthetics, armor crafting, sewing, bodypainting, and more. She also loves to share her knowledge through tutorials on her site, as well as panels at the conventions she attends.

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